Working with Laser Cut Ferns

 

 

 

Hi folks,

I have been experimenting with laser cut ferns for a couple of months, and I thought this would be a good chance to share my experiences. I think they are a fantastic resource for basing miniatures, particularly the larger scenic bases, but they can also be a real pain to work with. I'll go through the process of basing my Ravenwing Attack Bike with you and hopefully provide some helpful insights along the way.   


Step 1: Prepare thyself

Here is a list of stuff I had on-hand when I worked on the base: PVA, green stuff, super glue, 1:1 mixture of spring and winter flock, winter flock (brown), static grass, hobby knife, spear of destiny (ummm...sculpting tool) and, of course a laser cut fern.

The look I was going for was something like the picture below. This is a Birds Nest Fern in my Mother-in-Law's front yard. Note the dead leaves that have collected at the centre of the fern.

Step 2: Planning

The fern component of the base will catch the eye so you need to consider where you are going to put it. When working on a scenic base I suggest you check out some reference photos of how ferns grow naturally. For an example, check out my Iron Snakes Contemptor base. When I was planning the base below I wanted the fern to be in a prominent position, as there wasn't room for anything else interesting. I marked the space out by etching the surface of the base with my sculpting tool and drilling a small hole where the fern was to be placed.

Step 3: Flock it

I flocked the base with my spring/winter mix, with pure winter around the hole I drilled. This lighter patch acted as a highlight, providing greater contrast between the green of the fern and the base.

Step 4: Shaping the Fern

This is the tricky bit, so I took a few extra photos to help illustrate the process.



The fern will probably be flat and mangled when you take it out of the packaging.



Very gently open the fern completely and press it flat. Note the centre of the fern with the pinhole.



Hold the centre of the fern between thumb and forefinger, using your other hand to bend down the fronds very gently.



Add shape to the fern by pinching the centre gently. The petioles should fold up.



Invert the fern on something (Spear of Destiny, perhaps...) and add a tiny ball of green stuff to the bottom.



Use the tool to poke the fern down where you want it, fixing it in place by squashing down on the ball of green stuff. You can change the angle of the fern by moving the tool. If the tool sticks (thanks to green stuff coming through the pin hole), use a toothpick or pin to push down on the base of the fern as you pull the tool up and away (this has happened to me twice).

 

 

 

Step 5: Gluing the Fern

Apply a drop of super glue to the centre of the fern, it will overflow and fix the fern to the base while the green stuff cures. I put a pinch of winter flock on top of the glue to hide the pin hole and give the impression of the leaves collecting. I also added small amounts of static grass to add more texture to the flock finish.

Step 6: Finishing Touches

Finally I added the actually bike to the base. Et viola!

That's it! I have used this technique enough times now that I am quite confident that it gives the best results. Just trying to superglue the fern to the base is fiddly as hell and usually ends with glued fingers and broken fronds. Similarly, unless you spend the time shaping the fern yourself, the finished product looks unnatural and flat. I hope some more people give these a go and if you have any questions let me know.

See you across the table,

M4cr0

Ravenwing: Highlighting Black

 

Hi folks,

As I mentioned in my last post, I really haven't been looking forward to doing the next part of my Ravenwing project. Unfortunately, it happens to be a critical part! I haven't had much experience with painting things black; when it comes to achromatic shades I tend to favour browns and metallics. The primary exceptions in the past have been Ravenwing landspeeders, none of which I painted particularly well. I have painted one Ravenwing bike before, using blue/grey highlights, but that was a long time ago (late 90's). The effect was quite nice, nice enough in fact that I have used it on my Tyranids. I wanted to move away from that technique for my new Ravenwing squad, though, and have settled on the following witches brew:

Dawnstone, Eshin Grey, Abaddon Black and Nuln Oil

I start the process by hard-lining with Eshin Grey, which I then wet-blend with Abaddon Black all the way back to the undercoat shade. I repeat the process with a thinner line of Dawnstone, wet-blending it back to Eshin Grey if I paint the line too thick (...within the space of a gnats hair). This part was the hardest; I was fervently lamenting the amount of caffeine consumed during the day when I did it!  I then knock back the highlights with Nuln Oil because I prefer them to be subtle. Here is how it looks:

I am happy enough with the result to use this method on the other marines, hopefully I will get the highlights even tighter as I warm up to the task. All going well, I should also be able to transfer the skill over to the Nephilim Jetfighter I have waiting in the wings.

See you across the table,

M4cr0

Ravenwing: SNAFU

Hi folks,

When painting Space Marine bikes, conventional wisdom suggests that you should paint the rider and bike separately, particularly with the robed Dark Angels sergeant, as it can be hard to get the shades in the robes right. After assembling the sergeant though, I had this terrible suspicion that he wasn’t going to fit back on the seat! To save myself the pain of having an unusable painted miniature, I decided to attempt a dry fit straight after the undercoat. As suspected, the rider didn’t fit:

Here he is, in all his not-fitting glory...

The main problem was the thickness of the robes where they had to slide over the bikes exhaust. Somewhat dejected, I plonked myself down on the lounge room floor and mulled over what I should do. One option would be to use a spare set of robed legs to assemble the bottom half on the bike, then saw the top half off the undercoated figure and re-use it. I didn't like this option because it felt like too much fiddling and back-peddling. As always, Gypsy the Wonderdog offered her unconditional support.

To fix the problem I used a file and my hobby knife to reduce the thickness of the robes at the back. After an hour of careful shaving and repeated failed dry fit attempts: click, he was in. Now… getting him back out again so that I can paint him…

To finish off this stage of modelling I removed one of the bolguns and converted it into a meltagun, to represent a bike mounted combi-melta. I also added some Ravenwing kit to the back of the bike and started the long process of turning his black robes to the bone colour required. After the assembled parts are completed I'll finish this guy off with a steering arm and a thunder hammer.

I also painted all of the chest-eagles on the rest of the squad members. My technique for this is quick and nasty: a Bleached Bone layer followed by a Nuln Oil wash, then highlighted again with Bleached Bone. To finish it off I highlight with Skull White. The only tricky bit was painting the assembled marine handling the raven, as it was hard to get my brush in the best position to do the highlights.

I'm hoping that tonight I'll find some time to do some highlights on the black armour, a job I have been secretly dreading. Seriously, give me anything to highlight except black, please...

See you across the table,

M4cr0

X-wing: Cutting the Cord

Hi folks,

I realised a while back that, after 12 months of playing X-wing, my gaming group has never played a scenario from an expansion. Usually I prefer games with a strong narrative, but we have been using X-wing as more of a pick-up game, with the exception of the big Death Star Trench scenario we played in May. To remedy this I teamed up with KuriboGoomba and Wade to give the scenario from the Imperial Aces expansion a go: Cutting the Cord.

The scenario adds a lot of complexity to the usual game of X-wing and gives the Imperial player/s a chance to fly a powerful prototype TIE around ganking people. For those not familiar with the expansion, the scenario includes 6 small research facilities which can provide special bonuses to one TIE in the Imperial fleet within range 1. The rebel force includes two operatives on a single ship, which can be delivered to a facility in order to sabotage it, though this renders the ship transporting them defenseless for a turn. The facilities are very hard to destroy any other way (4 defense dice), unless they are actively providing a bonus to the TIE (2 defense dice).

The Imperial fleet consisted of Carnor Jax (Elusiveness, Stealth Device, Royal Guard TIE and Autothrusters), a prototype Royal Guard Pilot (Wingman, Stealth Device, Royal Guard TIE and Autothrusters) and Colonel Jendon (Accuracy Corrector, Hull Upgrade, Darth Vader and ST-321).

"Apology accepted, Colonel Jendon..."

The Rebel fleet had an extra 10 points to spend. I considered rolling with one of my usual B-wing lists but ended up with my "A-wing Mafia" list: Corran Horn (Stay on Target, Advanced Proton Torpedoes, R7-T1 and Munitions Failsafe), Jake Farrell (Wingman, Proton Rockets, Munitions Failsafe, A-wing Test Pilot and Opportunist) and Green Squadron Pilot (Wingman, Proton Rockets, Munitions Failsafe, A-wing Test Pilot and Opportunist).

Early in the game KuriboGoomba and I banked our ships right, away from the shuttle, so that we could minimise the number of Imperial ships firing at us. We misjudged by the merest fraction though and Colonel Jendon stripped Goomba's A-wing of its shields, with the help of accuracy corrector, followed by a critical hit from Darth Vader. Apart from reducing our ship down to one hull point, it also damaged the weapons system.

Unfortunately for our heroes, the shuttle is closer than it looks...

The Interceptors skillfully dodged most of our firing arcs, really threading the needle between the asteroids and ships. Corran took a shot at the prototype but failed to make an impact. We felt that we wouldn't survive very long by ignoring the shuttle, as its ability to harass was greatly enhanced by Darth Vader and A-wings simply can't take that many hits. So we prepared to take it out, even as our red A-wing was vapourised.

Corran and Jake brought their weapons to bear on the shuttle, with Corran firing twice and removing its shields. Jake launched a proton rocket which caused a further 5 hits, including 2 critical hits. With a single hull point remaining due to the Hull Upgrade, I was relieved to pick up a damage card that counts as two damage to finish it off!

I didn't realise it at the time, but by maneuvering to avoid the shuttles firing arc, I actually lined up an asteroid instead. The next turn I was forced to collide with it and lose my action for the round. The alternative would have been to land and deliver a Rebel operative, but the Interceptors were breathing down my neck and I needed the defense dice. Unfortunately it didn't matter, having synchronised with the nearby research facility the prototype unleashed two rounds of firing at the A-wing, wiping it out.

After several very close turns trading fire, I flew Corran into another asteroid (by the merest fraction of a base!) and he was pummeled by fire. The Imperial prototype was safe, but Vader was dead (take that "Ani").

I think if I played the scenario as the Rebels again, I would dedicate a ship to blowing up the facilities when they are easy to hit, i.e. in use. A turreted ship would be great for this; I was thinking a YT-2400. As always, playing to the objective wins games. Goomba and I chose to focus on the Shuttle instead (granted it was causing us a lot of pain) and paid the price for our lack of vision :-)

See you across the table,
M4cr0